GLACIER NATIONAL PARK, UNITED STATE

Reason to visit

It's an oft-repeated statistic that the glaciers at Montana's Glacier National Park will disappear by the year 2030. But Daniel Fagre, a U.S. Geological Survey ecologist who works at Glacier, says the park's namesakes will be gone about ten years ahead of schedule, endangering the region's plants and animals.

The 2020 estimate is based on aerial surveys and photography Fagre and his team have been conducting at Glacier since the early 1980s. A more standardized measure of what's happening to a glacier comes from arduous documentation of its mass, which requires—among other techniques—multiple core samples.

Fagre is concerned about ecological implications of glacier melt. A lot of our sensitive and rare plants are associated with the edges of glaciers. At first, retreating glaciers will expose more growing area for plants. But eventually plants will crowd the area, and reduced water could cause drying and die-offs. And as glaciers retreat, the streams they feed can become intermittent.

Location

Glacier National Park is a national park located in the U.S. state of Montana, on the Canada–United States border with the Canadian provinces of Alberta and British Columbia. The park encompasses over 1,000,000 acres (4,000 km²) and includes parts of two mountain ranges (sub-ranges of the Rocky Mountains), over 130 named lakes, more than 1,000 different species of plants and hundreds of species of animals. 

This vast pristine ecosystem is the centerpiece of what has been referred to as the "Crown of the Continent Ecosystem", a region of protected land encompassing 16,000 square miles (41,000 km²).^[3]
The region that became Glacier National Park was first inhabited by Native Americans and upon the arrival of European explorers, was dominated by the Blackfeet in the east and the Flathead in the western regions. Soon after the establishment of the park on May 11, 1910, a number of hotels and chalets were constructed by the Great Northern Railway. 

Ways to get there

By train

If you have the extra time and want to see more of the country, the train is a good alternative for traveling to Glacier National Park. Since much of the early development of the park was led by the Great Northern rail company, the railroad is an integrated part of the park's history (and vice versa). Amtrak's Empire Builder train service runs from Seattle and Portland through northern Montana, North Dakota, Minnesota, and Wisconsin to Chicago. The Empire Builder westbound arrives in the evening, the Eastbound train arrives in the morning, daily at the three stations serving the park. Travelers should arrange accomodations and/or waiting time accordingly.

By plane

Visitors to the park may fly to Glacier Park International Airport near Kalispell, Montana (IATA: FCA) (25 mi/40 km from West Glacier). It's possible to rent cars at the airport or take a shuttle (inquire first before making reservation to a particular airport if you do not wish to drive). Also, the destination of Missoula, Montana (IATA:MSO) is possible, though an additional 120 miles (190 km) must be driven. If you live near Los Angeles, San Francisco or Phoenix, there are non-stop flights to Missoula, so, unlike Kalispell, you won't have to connect.

By car

From the East: Take I-90 freeway to about 8 miles west of Missoula, then exit at US Hwy 93 north (Exit #96). In Kalispell, turn right at US Hwy 2 East (Idaho St.) From there it's 32 miles to the West Glacier entrance. OR, if you're approaching from North Dakota on US 2, it's a straight shot to Glacier Park. Heading west on I-94 across North Dakota, the shortest route to Glacier is exiting at Glendive to Montana highway 200s to Circle, then north on Montana 13 to east of Wolf Point, then west on Montana 25 to Wolf Point, then US 2 to Glacier Park. If coming from the South (Great Falls) or East (Havre) and your destination first is Waterton Lakes National Park, the fastest way is taking US 2 to Cut Bank, and then going north on Montana secondary 213 to Del Bonita, where it becomes Alberta highway 62. At the "town" of Del Bonita, Alberta (2 miles from the border) turn west on Alberta secondary 501 and go to Cardston, and then directly to Waterton Lakes on Alberta highway 5. This is signficantly faster than US 2/89 via Browning.

For East Glacier there are various routes including the I-15 Fwy (see From the South below). However, from the freeways, East Glacier via West Glacier is about the same time and distance. The best route for those wanting to avoid Montana's freeways and save over 250 miles is to follow I-94 just inside Montana from North Dakotaand exit #211. State Hwy 200S becomes 200 (no turns) and later becomes shared with US Hwy 87. On the west side of Great Falls where the highway merges into the freeway, take I-15 North for 12 miles and Exit #290 in Vaughn. On US Hwy 89 go 105 miles to Browning in the Blackfeet Indian Reservation. At the museum, turn left and take US Hwy 2 into East Glacier. (If using I-90 you can join this route via Billings. Follow State Hwy 3 at Exit #450, which is later shared with US 12 & 191. Turn left at the end of the highway at "Eddies Corner" and follow as above going to Great Falls.)

Don't underestimate the huge size of the state of Montana (550 mi/880 km wide). Glacier Park is actually closer to Seattle than it is to far eastern Montana.

From the West: Take I-90 freeway to Coeur d'Alene, Idaho (Exit #12, turn left) on to US Hwy 95. Where US Hwy 2 and 95 split north of Bonners Ferry, turn right to get US Hwy 2. From there, it's 167 miles to the West Glacier entrance. Don't forget to set clocks an hour ahead when entering Montana.

A slightly more ambitious (though fully paved) short cut is to stay on the I-90 freeway up to St. Regis, Montana (Exit #33). Then turn left on State Hwy 135 and go 21.6 miles, left on State Hwy 200 for 8.3 miles, right on State Hwy 28 for 46.7 miles, and left on US Hwy 93 in Elmo on Flathead Lake. In Kalispell, turn right at US Hwy 2 East (Idaho St.) This is a very scenic route along the Clark Fork River and Flathead Lake (which both contain all the waters of Glacier Park west of the Continental Divide) with farmlands in between. However, gas (petrol) and other services are limited between the freeway and Elmo.

Note: Using Hwy 200 east from Sandpoint, Idaho is not recommended, as all north-south connections with US Hwy 2 in between Libby and Kalispell are NOT paved! There's just no quick and easy way to get through the Cabinet Mountains beyond 15-20 miles from the Idaho border.

From the North (Canada): If first visiting Waterton Lakes National Park in Alberta, take Canada Hwy 2 south to the junction of the Crowsnest Hwy 3. Then go west (towards BC) 43 km and turn left at Pincher Station on Canada Hwy 6 for another 50 km. Turn right at the junction of Hwy 5 to enter the park. Upon leaving to get to Glacier, make two right turns just after exiting the park, and follow Canada Hwy 6 for 22 km to the U.S. border. This becomes State Hwy 17; turn right in 23 km onto US Hwy 89. The first park entrance is Many Glacier in 7 km (just after Babb).

Note: The international border is closed overnight between Waterton and Glacier, so via Cardston is only way in (see below). Bring US/Canadian pasport, passport card or enhanced driver’s license. If bypassing Waterton, take Canada Hwy 2 south to Cardston and cross the U.S. border. This becomes US Hwy 89. The first park entrance is Many Glacier 17 km from the border.

From the South: Take freeway I-15 North to Shelby, Montana (Exit #363) and turn left onto US Hwy 2. From there it's 70 miles to East Glacier. A short cut would be to exit I-15 in Vaughn, Montana (Exit #290) and take US Hwy 89 to Browning in the Blackfeet Indian Reservation. At the museum, turn left and take US Hwy 2 to East Glacier.

By foot

The Continental Divide Trail, a 3,100 mile United States National Scenic Trail, has its northern trailhead in Swiftcurrent Campground, accessible by car from Babbon Glacier Route Three. An alternate route starts from the Apikuni Trailhead, also located along Glacier Route Three. This trail exits the park at Marias Pass to the south and runs south along the Continental Divide to Mexico.

Things to do

1. Biking - Bicycles are restricted to bike paths, roadways, and parking areas. Check the National Park Service's Glacier website for path, and road closures. Bikes are forbidden on trails. Bicycle rental is not available in Glacier National Park. It is possible to bike the length of Going-to-the-Sun Road, but the park limits bike access during peak traffic hours since many portions of the road do not have shoulders. The best times of day to go are the early morning or late afternoon. Although it is easiest to bike the road from east to west, be prepared for a steep elevation gain as you approach Logan Pass and cross the Continental Divide from either direction.
2. Boating - Boat tours are available at Many Glacier, Two Medicine, Rising Sun, Waterton Lake, and Lake McDonald. Personal motorized boats are permitted on some of the park's lakes, but usually limited to 10 hp motors.
3. Camping - There are several dozen backcountry campgrounds along the trail system, as well as frontcountry campgrounds available to motorists and RVers.
4. Winter Activities - Park visitors during the winter (approximately December - April) may explore the park using skis or snowshoes. Some trails may be closed due to avalanche or snow-related hazards, and visitors should check conditions with a ranger before departure and check out after return.
5. Fishing - Glacier is famous for its great trout fishing. Fishermen may fish without permits and can keep any fish they catch (except bull trout), but are advised to clean fish carefully: throw entrails into water far from shore, as the smell of fresh fish will attract bears.
6. Hiking - Over half of the visitors to Glacier National Park report taking a hike along some of the park's 700 miles of trails. Hikers can purchase topographical maps, trail guides, and field guides at visitor centers. Guided day hiking and backpacking treks are available. Check the National Park Service's Glacier website for more info.The Trail of the Cedars, Huckleberry Mountain, Hidden Lake, Sun Point, and Swiftcurrent Nature Trails are hiker friendly and have signs that dot the trails to help hikers. The Trail of the Cedars is wheelchair accessible.
7. Horseback riding - Most of the park's trail system is open to horses. Guided trips and horse rentals available at Many Glacier, Waterton Lake, Two Medicine, Rising Sun, and Lake McDonald Lodge.